Voltage, Current & Power Calculator
Enter any two of voltage, current and power and get the third, in whatever units you have them in.
Watts from volts and amps, in whatever units you have them - and the missing one when you have the other two.
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Estimates only. Rates, fees and specifications change. Confirm against the official source before you rely on a figure — see our disclaimer.
Power is voltage times current. That single relationship connects almost everything on a charger label, a rating plate or a battery specification, and most of the confusion about electricity comes from trying to use one of the three numbers on its own.
Enter any two and this works out the third. Enter a voltage by itself and it will tell you why that is not enough — which is the useful answer, not an evasion.
Power = Voltage x Current P = V x I
Current = Power / Voltage I = P / V
Voltage = Power / Current V = P / I
On AC, volts times amps gives apparent power, measured in VA. The real power in watts is that figure times the power factor, and for anything with a motor or a switching supply the two differ. A power factor of 1 makes them the same, which is correct for DC and for purely resistive loads such as a heater or an incandescent bulb.
| Symbol | Meaning | Unit |
|---|---|---|
| P | Power | W |
| V | Voltage | V |
| I | Current | A |
A phone charger labelled 5 V, 3 A:
P = 5 x 3 = 15 W
A 1,000 W appliance on a 230 V supply:
I = 1000 / 230 = 4.35 A
The second is the calculation that matters when you are wondering whether an extension lead will cope.
Multiply them. Volts times amps gives watts, so a 5 V supply delivering 3 A is 15 W. On an AC circuit with a motor or a switching supply, multiply by the power factor as well.
No. Voltage describes the push, not how much is flowing - a 5 V charger can be 5 W or 100 W depending on the current it delivers. You need the current, or the power, as a second figure.
It is the fraction of apparent power that does real work, between 0 and 1. For DC and for resistive loads such as a heater it is 1 and can be ignored. Motors, transformers and cheap switching supplies are lower, and the figure comes from the rating plate.
Rating plates usually give a maximum. A device drawing less than its rating is normal. A device apparently drawing more is worth investigating - check whether the label is quoting VA rather than W.
Enter any two of voltage, current and power and get the third, in whatever units you have them in.
How many times a power bank will really charge your phone, using a realistic efficiency rather than the number printed…
How many amps a given wattage draws at a given voltage - the figure that decides whether a circuit copes.
Watts from amps and volts, handling milliamps - the conversion for turning a charger label into a wattage.
Volts alone cannot give watts. Here is why, and what to add to get the answer you are after.
The voltage a given wattage runs at, when you know the current.